Anna Sui Spring/Summer 2027 Modernizes The '70s Fashion It Girl
Our take
Anna Sui's Spring/Summer 2027 "Wonderment" collection, presented at New York Fashion Week, feels like a gentle exhale after the recent whirlwind of maximalism. The revival of '70s silhouettes—high-waisted flares, flowing maxi dresses, and peasant blouses—is a welcome return to a more grounded and inherently feminine aesthetic. It’s a smart move, particularly when considering the ongoing conversation around elevated basics and quiet luxury; a trend we’ve been observing closely, as evidenced by Amal Just Arrived at the Airport in the One Shoe Trend I Never Thought She'd Fly In. This isn't a chaotic recreation of the decade’s more flamboyant excesses, but a considered distillation of its essence, filtered through Sui's signature whimsical lens. The collection resonates with a desire for a simpler, more self-assured style—one that prioritizes ease and personal expression over fleeting trends. It’s a visual reminder that enduring style often lies in revisiting and reinterpreting the classics.
The success of Sui’s approach hinges on its ability to feel both nostalgic and undeniably modern. The collection doesn't merely replicate '70s looks; it reimagines them for a contemporary audience. Details like updated fabrics, subtle color palettes, and a focus on flattering cuts elevate the familiar silhouettes, preventing them from feeling like a costume. Consider, too, the broader context of recent fashion weeks. While many designers have embraced bold experimentation and avant-garde concepts, there's a growing undercurrent of desire for pieces that feel authentic and timeless. This aligns with the broader cultural shift towards mindful consumption and a rejection of fast fashion, a sentiment echoed in our recent piece exploring collections inspired by international style icons The Fall Collection Inspired by Our Favorite Fashion People Across the Pond. The "Wonderment" collection, with its emphasis on quality and enduring design, taps directly into this sensibility.
Furthermore, Sui's decision to stage the show at The National Arts Club adds another layer of sophistication and intentionality. The location itself—a historic landmark steeped in artistic heritage—underscores the collection's reverence for the past and its commitment to timeless elegance. It’s a deliberate choice that reinforces the idea that style is not merely about clothing, but about cultivating a sense of personal narrative and belonging to a lineage of aesthetic appreciation. The show's atmosphere, likely imbued with a sense of quiet refinement and understated glamour, would have further amplified the collection's message. The return to a more intimate setting, a departure from the sprawling mega-shows that have become commonplace, also feels particularly relevant in an era where authenticity and connection are highly valued. The show's focus on individual style, rather than spectacle, speaks volumes about the current mood of the fashion industry. Even the recent buzz surrounding celebrity appearances, like that of Melanie and Kenzie reconnecting at New York Fashion Week Melanie and Kenzie Reconnect at New York Fashion Week After Their Tiff During the ‘Love Island USA’ Reunion, highlights the desire for genuine moments and relatable connections within the traditionally exclusive world of fashion.
Ultimately, Anna Sui's "Wonderment" collection signals a significant shift towards a more considered and emotionally resonant approach to fashion. It’s a celebration of enduring style, feminine power, and the quiet confidence that comes from embracing one’s own unique aesthetic. The collection feels less like a trend and more like a philosophy—a gentle reminder that true style is not about chasing fleeting fads, but about cultivating a timeless sense of self. The question now becomes: will other designers follow suit, embracing a more understated and introspective approach to design, or will the pendulum continue to swing towards maximalism and spectacle?
On Saturday afternoon, Anna Sui welcomed guests into The National Arts Club in Gramercy Park to present her Spring/Summer 2027 collection, titled Wonderment. “Wonderment is the moment of enlightenment when you discover something new — something that sends you down a rabbit hole,” wrote Sui in her show notes. “It is the impulse to keep your eyes and mind open to possibility: to reach beyond the familiar, to remain receptive to surprise, and to allow yourself to be astonished and inspired by newfound awareness, sometimes beyond your wildest dreams.”
Based on the reactions of the showgoers around me, it isn’t far-fetched to say Sui successfully captured this idea. With just the opening look — a silky-lavender-and-black-lace cropped kimono and accompanying midi skirt accessorized by a traditional bamboo parasol — women of all ages beside me cracked a smile at Sui’s simultaneously fresh yet familiar take on femininity.
The following slew of models walked the runway in progressively more bohemian looks that any fashion girl would fight to wear at Coachella: pink printed mini dresses layered under sweeping matching robes, apron-like crop tops with crocheted hemlines and floral embroideries paired with silver-studded denim, ruffled high-collared eyelet blouse-and-pant sets, and stripey tunic tops styled beneath white-and-green silk camisoles and capris.
That’s not to say there weren’t party girl-friendly options, too. Variously sized iridescent pailettes cascaded down the front of slinky slip tops with coordinating skirts and crossbody bags, neon lace bralettes peeked out from beneath runched corset-adorned chemises, and silver sequins shaped into stars acted as pasties across a black jersey halter-neck dress. Each look has a vintage air to it (as most of Sui’s designs do) but are also well-grounded in the reality of what the modern girl-on-the-go wants, as especially evidenced by the show’s glam. Mismatched ‘70s-inspired curls took up models’ heads in funky patterns and crimps — making me feel a lot better about my own varied and heat damaged curls.
“I discovered Howard Gardiner Cushing’s paintings while flipping through a 1970s issue of Vogue, searching for an Avedon photograph of an Ara Gallant hairstyle,” Sui wrote. “On Justine Cushing’s walls were the most fantastical paintings. What began as a search for a photograph suddenly became something else entirely: a new visual world opening before me.”
With each passing look, that world became clear as day, with Sui continuing to cement herself as the go-to cool-girl whisperer. While there were everyday, covered-up pieces that could easily round out the wardrobe of someone heading to brunch at the latest downtown hotspot, there were also some naked-dressing moments, such as a completely sheer maxi dress showing off a magenta-and-baby-blue bra-and-undies set beneath. Although those ensembles are certainly on the sexier side, they still somehow feel more rooted in a fun, frilly, female-gaze fantasy, rather than simply for the sake of being exposed. Every single outfit truly felt like it was crafted from a dreamy doll-like closet — another sentiment shared as guests shuffled toward the exit following the show. “Take my money,” one person said to me. In other words, Sui once again proved that she just gets it.
Below, see more highlights from Anna Sui’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection.
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