Not Black—the 2026 Dress Trend People in France Are Wearing With Black and White Heels
Our take
The fashion landscape is perpetually in motion, and discerning the subtle shifts that signal true trends requires a keen eye. The recent sighting at the Jacquemus show in Corsica—a monochromatic, not-black dress paired with black and white heels—is more than just a fleeting moment of style; it represents a nuanced evolution within the broader minimalist aesthetic. It’s a quiet rebellion against the maximalism that has, for a time, dominated the runway. We’ve seen similar explorations of unexpected color pairings recently, as evidenced in “If You Want to Look Cooler in a Black Dress This Summer, Wear This Exact Shoe Color,” where a strategic shift in footwear can dramatically elevate a classic silhouette. The choice of “not-black”—a shade that hints at charcoal, deep grey, or even a muted navy—speaks to a desire for understated elegance, a move away from stark contrasts and towards a more harmonious and considered visual experience. It’s a deliberate choice to prioritize texture and form over immediate, eye-catching color.
This isn’t about rejecting black entirely; rather, it’s about reimagining its role within a carefully curated wardrobe. The pairing with black and white heels further reinforces this idea of quiet sophistication. It’s a look that whispers luxury rather than shouting it – a core tenet of the aesthetic we champion. The ‘not-black’ dress acts as a blank canvas, allowing the quality of the fabric, the cut of the garment, and the overall silhouette to take center stage. It aligns perfectly with the current mood of “calm luxury,” where investment pieces and timeless design are valued over fleeting trends. The selection by attendees at the Jacquemus show, known for their impeccable style, demonstrates a growing appreciation for this subtlety. The choices these women make reflect an understanding that true style isn't about chasing the latest fad, but about cultivating a personal aesthetic rooted in enduring principles, a point also highlighted in “I'm a Fashion Editor—Here's Everything in My Cart From Banana Republic for Summer,” which emphasizes the power of carefully selected, versatile pieces.
The significance of this trend extends beyond just a single color palette. It signals a broader shift in how we perceive and consume fashion. The focus is moving away from overt displays of wealth and towards a more thoughtful and intentional approach to dressing. It's about understanding the power of simplicity and the impact of subtle details. This "not-black" phenomenon embodies a quiet confidence—an assurance that comes not from external validation but from a deep understanding of personal style. The trend echoes a broader cultural movement towards mindful consumption and a rejection of fast fashion. It’s a move towards investing in quality pieces that will stand the test of time, both in terms of style and durability. This quiet luxury aesthetic isn’t about denying pleasure; it’s about finding joy in the elegant simplicity of well-made, thoughtfully chosen items.
Looking ahead, it will be interesting to observe how this “not-black” trend evolves. Will we see other muted tones gaining prominence? Will the pairing with black and white heels become a defining characteristic of this aesthetic? Ultimately, this development suggests a continued emphasis on quiet confidence and understated elegance within the fashion sphere. It reinforces the idea that true style isn't about shouting for attention, but about cultivating a refined and intentional presence. The key question becomes: how will designers and consumers alike continue to explore the nuances of this increasingly important aesthetic, and will this preference for subtlety extend beyond clothing and into other areas of lifestyle and design?
Simon Porte Jacquemus knows how to put on a show—and dress its viewers in the chicest way possible. The designer from the South of France debuted his spring/summer 2027 collection this week at Phare de la Pietra on the French island of Corsica and invited some of the most stylish women from his home country and beyond to watch from the front row. As for what they wore for the occasion, the best dressed among them seemed keen on donning one dress color and one dress color only: aqua blue, the summer shade that's been quietly taking over, replacing the likes of regal purple and butter yellow in recent months. It was all over the show venue, setting the tone for a run of dominance throughout the remainder of 2026.
The most prominent wearer of aqua blue was Alexandra Leclerc (formerly Saint Mleux), whose looks at Jacquemus shows get better every season. This time around, Leclerc wore an aqua-blue poplin dress with a V-shaped neckline and a draped bodice that cinched beneath the knee before poofing out in a mermaid-esque fashion. (See Look 5 from the show.) She paired the dress with light-colored accessories, including an ivory box bag with feather embellishments and a pair of white classic pumps.
On Alexandra Leclerc: Jacquemus dress, shoes, and bag
Leclerc's dress was one of a handful of aqua blue pieces featured in the S/S 27 collection. There was also a strapless gown and matching headpiece in the shade, as well as a voluminous skirt and pair of ballet flats. Clearly it's making the rounds. She also wasn't the only attendee who wore the color, with others like Ro Brahmand and Quenlin Blackwell also picking dresses in a similarly vibrant and summer-ready shade.
On Ro Brahmand: Jacquemus The Pina Knit Dress ($950), Small Valérie Bag ($1690), and shoes
On Quenlin Blackwell: Jacquemus dress, Small Valérie Bag ($1690), and shoes
What stood out even more than aqua blue's presence at the show, though, was its versatility, particularly when it came to shoe styling. Often with bright color trends, there's really only one shoe color that looks best with it—notably black. However, with aqua blue, there's no reason why someone wearing the hue should avoid experimenting in the shoe-color department. For instance, while Blackwell and Brahmand chose black heels, Leclerc took another approach, opting for white heels. In the show, models donned coordinating aqua-blue footwear, as well as baby pink and yellow.
As a result, aqua blue becomes a no-brainer dress color for summer weddings. You can wear it to multiple ceremonies, easily changing up the look with different footwear. So what are you waiting for? Keep scrolling to shop the 2026 dress color trend that already has every chic woman in France's stamp of approval.
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