The Secret's Out: Fashion Has a Freaky Foot Fetish, and This Autumn, so Will You
Our take
The fashion landscape is in constant flux, a cyclical dance of revival and reinvention. What was once considered daringly avant-garde swiftly becomes mainstream, a testament to the industry’s restless appetite for the new. The current shift, as highlighted in "The Secret's Out: Fashion Has a Freaky Foot Fetish, and This Autumn, so Will You," is a fascinating example of this evolution. The article’s premise—that the Tabis, once the epitome of fashion eccentricity, are now commonplace—underscores a deeper trend: a growing acceptance, even embrace, of styles that push boundaries and challenge conventional notions of beauty. This isn't merely about footwear; it reflects a broader cultural shift towards celebrating the unconventional and finding allure in the unexpected. The rise of niche aesthetics and subcultural influences within mainstream fashion, as explored in From IYKYK Substacks to Elite Fashion Subscriptions, How High Is Your Fashion IQ?, demonstrates this increasing sophistication and willingness to engage with more specialized trends. The conversation surrounding fashion is no longer solely dictated by established houses and celebrity endorsements; it’s a dynamic dialogue shaped by online communities and individual expression.
The shift towards embracing “freaky” footwear – the article’s evocative phrasing – isn’t just about aesthetics; it speaks to a desire for liberation and self-discovery. It's a rejection of the sterile, homogenous styles that have, at times, dominated the industry. This willingness to experiment with unconventional shapes and textures parallels the broader movement towards embracing individuality and challenging societal norms. Consider, too, the ongoing fascination with figures who defy categorization and embody a unique creative vision, like Maisie Williams, as explored in Under Her Spell: Maisie Williams Is Fashion's Favourite Witch. The celebration of those who dare to be different inevitably spills over into the realm of style, influencing trends and inspiring a new generation of fashion enthusiasts to explore their own personal aesthetic. The article's observation that a split toe is no longer shocking is a telling indicator of this cultural evolution—what was once subversive is now simply…stylish. Even the predictive nature of beauty trends, as outlined in An Expert Has Spoken: These 5 Makeup Trends Will Dominate Autumn 2026, points to a desire for both novelty and a sense of being ahead of the curve, further fueling the appetite for unexpected and daring styles.
The significance of this trend extends beyond seasonal collections and runway shows. It represents a fundamental reshaping of the relationship between fashion and the individual. Historically, fashion has often been about conforming to external expectations and adhering to prescribed ideals. Now, there’s a growing emphasis on using style as a form of self-expression, a way to communicate identity and values. This shift is particularly resonant in a world increasingly conscious of diversity and inclusivity. Embracing unconventional styles—be it footwear, clothing, or accessories—is a powerful way to challenge stereotypes and celebrate the beauty of difference. It’s a recognition that beauty isn’t confined to a narrow definition but exists in a multitude of forms. The industry’s willingness to embrace these shifts suggests a deeper understanding of its audience and a desire to create a more inclusive and empowering experience for consumers. This is not about fleeting trends; it’s about a fundamental recalibration of values within the fashion ecosystem.
Looking ahead, it will be intriguing to observe how this fascination with the unconventional continues to evolve. Will “freaky” footwear remain a dominant trend, or will it morph into something even more unexpected? More importantly, will the industry’s newfound embrace of individuality translate into a more equitable and sustainable fashion system? The current moment presents a unique opportunity to redefine beauty standards and create a more inclusive and expressive world—a world where the most daring styles are not only accepted but celebrated. The question becomes: how far will the industry push the boundaries of convention, and what new forms of self-expression will emerge as a result?
Once upon a time, in a fashion world that existed not too long ago, the Margiela Tabi was considered the most outlandish style of shoe a person could wear. Fast-forward to today, when even Kylie Jenner wears them on a date via Citibike, it takes more than a split toe to scare off non-fashion folk. We have jelly shoes fit for Polly Pocket, orthopaedic sports sneakers with velcro straps, neoprene and a high arch for support, "toe cleavage" and complete exposure therapy courtesy of Saint Laurent’s men’s PVC brogues and Chanel’s "sole-less" sandals. Fashion commentator Mandy Lee said it best when she declared us in a "freaky shoe era". No style, shape or hybrid is out of bounds, because fashion’s latest fetish doesn’t discriminate; it democratises.
Whilst we may be heading into autumn, let’s begin by paying summer’s most eccentric syles theirs dues. A while ago I waxed lyrical on the rise of "princess shoes", footwear that panders to our inner child who wanted to dress up in Cinderella’s glass slippers or Marie Antoinette’s mules. Jelly shoes might have made their return in 2025, but Chloe’s Chemena Kamali pushed the boundaries of shoe design fit for our seven-year-old selves by dropping her PVC jelly mules. Pastel and peep-toed, they echo the sentiment of Aqua’s lyrics of pure poetry: “Life in plastic, it’s fantastic".
But if plastic isn’t your thing, fear not, Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel Cruise collection has a sandal for you. Designed in black leather with long laces to be tied around the ankle, they look relatively traditional until you realise they have no sole. Half the shoe, but not half the price.
Back in June, when the menswear spring/summer 2027 shows were presented, it was clear they too got the message. Lace-up ballet flats at Dries van Noten, derby jazz shoes and barely there sandals at Celine and—wait for it—transparent pointed PVC brogues and boots at Saint Laurent. Woof! Some of these styles aren't yet available, but they still set the tone for the season ahead. And as we all declared an end to quiet luxury and the rebirth of maximalism, our tippy-toes got the bedazzled treatment. A harem of toe rings, charm anklets and embellished flip-flops filled our Instagram feeds, and this was just the beginning. 2026 has been declared the year of whimsy more than once, and what's more whimsical than Chanel’s haute couture show being inspired by fairytales such as Jack and the Beanstalk? With golden eggs, ornate butterflies and decorated legumes for heels, the collection made JW Anderson’s frog clogs of 2023 or BHIVE’s duck flippers feel like child’s play.
Princess mules or butterfly-and-beanstalk heels; what’s clear is that "freaky" no longer simply equates to "ugly". In fact, autumn/winter 2026's most outlandish styles are prettier than ever. There are Tory Burch's embellished pumps, Dior’s waterlily sandals and Prada’s feathered and beaded lime green lace-up boots, and the level of intricacy and craftsmanship proves that there’s method in the madness.
Dior’s director of footwear design, Nina Christen, is responsible for the house’s brilliantly bold designs under Anderson’s leadership. If one were speaking in musical terms, the autumn/winter couture 2026 footwear collection was a seminal album with a no-skip tracklist. Bows, beads, feathers and florals upon taffeta silks and pastel mesh: every inch of shoe was a smorgasbord of fabulously fun, feminine decoration.
But what else can we expect from shoes in A/W 26? Another Mandy Lee prediction that came to fruition (because honestly, when does she miss?) was the presence of hair. Simone Rocha, Dries van Noten, Erdem, Marni and Miu Miu are offering everything from ballet flats to boots with shearling exteriors and long-haired toes that give zero f**ks whether it rains or pours, because they’re not made with practicality in mind.
Looking at the runways, if you were thinking some styles felt somewhat familiar, you’d be correct. The Valentino Garavani Rockstud returns with a new 'do courtesy of Alessandro Michele, and Gucci’s monogrammed foldable-heel courts might just be tempting us with the return of logomania (yes, it's due a comeback, but you heard it here first). Others are reminiscent of a bygone era much further back than the 2000s or 2010s, however. We all know this time of year is the season of the witch, and with Practical Magic 2’s release, it couldn’t be a more welcome time for Victorian footwear to come to the fore. Lace-up boots might have been trending since last winter, but it’s the elasticated Khaite courts with their turned-up toe that have a distinctly spooky feel.
As such, whether you’re looking for shoes fit for a princess, a witch or to allude to the fairytale-loving inner child within us all, I think Nile Rogers said it best: "Le freak, c’est chic"!
Shop Freaky Footwear for Autumn/Winter 2026
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